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With a population of 12,000, Siolim is one of the state's largest villages - not as though you would know it as you wander around the densely forested lanes, colonial era houses and colourful fruit and veg stalls that line the roads.
Unlike Calangute just 10km south, the town has escaped the mass development that so defines the popular tourist areas of Goa's coast. Shops in the village are aimed at locals and not tourists, markets sell food rather than sequined lampshades and foreigners are usually in and out in as much time as it takes to withdraw R.5000 from an ATM.
For anyone that sticks around, Siolim's appeal is quick to appear - the town is resolutely Goan, it has not changed itself for Western visitors. It produces some of the world's best feni, a uniquely Goan alcoholic drink brewed from cashews or coconuts, and there are some beautiful walks to be enjoyed by the river and along the shady lanes.