I'm a freelance writer and my wife, Louise, is an attorney (and former public defender). I write a lot about cocktails, liquor, walking and architecture. (Want to know where to get a good drink in New Orleans? Just ask.) New Orleans is to cultural history what the Grand Canyon is to natural history: the deeper you go, the more interesting it gets. (Also, the harder it is to get out, as numerous people who came here on vacation and never left will attest.) We're happy to point you to the obscure side canyons few visit.