Buenos Aires Travel Guide

Start at the city's civic heart

Arrive before 10am for softer light on the Casa Rosada facade and shorter lines.

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  Plaza De Mayo

  The founding square, framed by the Casa Rosada and the Metropolitan Cathedral.

Marble avenues in Recoleta

Wear sun protection; the walkways are open and summer days reach 86°F (30°C).

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  Cementerio de Recoleta

  A walled city of mausoleums in Recoleta, five minutes from Plaza Francia's craft stalls.

Cobblestones and tango in San Telmo

Dinner rarely starts before 9pm, so plan a late table and book tango seats ahead.

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  Plaza Dorrego

  San Telmo's antique square, where cafe tables and street tango fill the evening.

Start at the civic heart

Arrive before 10am for softer light and thinner crowds on the plaza.

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  Casa Rosada

  The rose-colored government house anchoring Plaza de Mayo, the city's founding square.

Down Avenida de Mayo

The cafe has table service; expect a small surcharge and a slower pace.

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  Cafe Tortoni

  An 1858 cafe with marble tables, a short walk from the plaza along Avenida de Mayo.

Books under a theater dome

Open late most evenings; the stage-side seating area is free to use.

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  El Ateneo Grand Splendid

  A 1919 theater turned bookstore, with balconies and a painted ceiling intact.

San Telmo market morning

Sundays bring the full street fair along Defensa; weekdays are calmer indoors.

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  Mercado San Telmo

  An 1897 iron-framed market with produce stalls, antiques, and empanada counters.

Painted lane in La Boca

Stay on the main pedestrian streets and visit during daylight hours.

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  Caminito

  A short riverside lane of corrugated houses painted in bold colors, once a rail cut.

Puerto Madero waterfront

The dockside promenade is flat, well lit, and pleasant after sunset.

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  Women's Bridge

  Calatrava's white footbridge over Dock 3, ringed by converted brick warehouses.

Marble avenues in Recoleta

Bring water and a hat; the walkways offer little shade by midmorning.

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  Cementerio de Recoleta

  A walled city of mausoleums and sculpture, including Eva Perón's family tomb.

Argentine art collection

Entry is free and the ground-floor Argentine galleries reward an unhurried hour.

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  Museo Nacional De Bellas Artes

  National art museum a few blocks from the cemetery, strong on 19th-century Argentine painters.

Rose garden at golden hour

Gates close around sunset, so aim to arrive at least an hour before.

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  Paseo El Rosedal Garden

  A lakeside rose garden with pergolas and a white bridge inside Parque Tres de Febrero.

The city's civic heart

Arrive before 10am for softer light and thinner crowds on the plaza.

• 

  Plaza De Mayo

  The founding square, ringed by the Casa Rosada and the Cabildo.

Cathedral and cafe culture

The cathedral sits on the plaza's north side, a two-minute walk from Casa Rosada.

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  Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral

  Neoclassical cathedral on Plaza de Mayo with a quiet marble interior.

Books under a painted dome

Open late most evenings; the stage-side seats make a good reading break.

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  El Ateneo Grand Splendid

  A 1919 theater on Santa Fe turned bookshop, balconies and all.

Recoleta's city of marble

Grab a map at the entrance to find Eva Peron's family vault.

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  Cementerio de Recoleta

  Narrow lanes of ornate mausoleums in the heart of Recoleta.

Parks and a steel bloom

The petals open and close with daylight, so late afternoon is a good visit.

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  Floralis Genérica

  A 75-foot metal flower on Plaza Naciones Unidas, minutes from the cemetery.

Inside a legendary opera house

Book the guided tour or a performance online several days ahead.

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  Teatro Colón

  One of the world's great concert halls, known for its acoustics.

Market stalls and antiques

Sundays bring the full street fair along Defensa; weekdays are calmer indoors.

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  Mercado San Telmo

  An 1897 covered market with produce stands, antiques, and food counters.

Color along Caminito

Stay on the main pedestrian streets and head back before dusk.

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  Caminito

  La Boca's painted alley of corrugated houses and open-air art.

Tango where it lives

Beginner classes usually start before the milonga; check the night's schedule.

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  Salón Canning

  A long-running Palermo dance hall favored by local tango dancers.

Rose garden morning

Enter from Avenida Infanta Isabel and follow the pergola loop.

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  Paseo El Rosedal Garden

  A lakeside rose garden inside Bosques de Palermo, with a white bridge.

Latin American art

Closed Tuesdays; the ground-floor collection is the highlight.

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  Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires

  MALBA holds Frida Kahlo and Xul Solar works, a short walk from the parks.

Steak in Palermo

Argentines dine late, so reserve for 9pm or later.

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  Don Julio

  A Palermo Viejo parrilla known for grass-fed cuts and bottle-lined walls.

Train to the delta

Take the Mitre line to Tigre, then switch to the Tren de la Costa if you like.

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  Puerto De Frutos

  Tigre's riverside market with wicker, crafts, and delta food stalls.

Out on the channels

Public launches depart hourly; buy tickets at the station window.

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  Terminal Fluvial de Tigre

  The boat terminal for delta trips past stilt houses and rowing clubs.

Riverfront and return

The museum closes late afternoon, so stop here before the train back.

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  Museo De Arte De Tigre

  A restored riverside club housing Argentine painting, near the station.